FAQ

FAQ / Index by subject                                   virago250street.com

· SPEEDOMETER

Virago 250 speedometer

· 17/38 sprocket change for Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-13

· Adjust Valves, How to
http://wp.me/P1LWaM-Cd

· Air filter – putting 2 inch vintage louvered VW air filter on Virago 250  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (middle of post – item #8)

· Air filter – replace or clean it once a year – Virago 250  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (middle of post – item #8)

· Air Filter chrome pods – low cost ways to change the looks of the Virago 250 air filter chrome pods  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-h3  (top of post)

· Air Filters – looking for ideas? – 25 different Virago 250’s with 25 different air cleaners  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-ek

· Baffles – add to stock mufflers of Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-1P  (bottom of post)

· Bar weightsBar weights can make a big improvment in vibration through the bars.  Most Virago’s do not have this problem, but if you have a vertical twin, and the handlebar vibration bothers you, you might want to try bar weights, preferably over 5.0 ounces or 142 grams each.  See the bottom of this page for examples of bar weights.

· Battery – Virago 250 stock battery size and weight – important to check water level  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (bottom of post – item #20)

· Bobbers – Virago 250 – some nice examples   http://wp.me/P1LWaM-dV

· Brake light flasher – How to Install on Virago 250    http://wp.me/p1LWaM-uP

· Brake light flasher – added to Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-22  (top of post)

· Brake light / tail light, add-on to Virago 250, fits Virago 250 great like it was meant to go there – above stock tail  light, is brighter than stock light –   http://wp.me/P1LWaM-1  (middle of post)

· Bulbs – replacement – The 3 watt neutral indicator bulb is number 42X-83517-00-00. LED replacement is T6.5 .  (T5 will fit but it is loose. You might could add some tape to make it fit better.)

· Carb heaters, disconnecting – Virago 250 – I disconnected mine to try it – bad idea to disconnect if your location is ever below  59 degrees F  (15° C)http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (bottom of post – item #14)

· Carburetor jets for Virago 250 – The 6 Sigma jet kit for Virago 250 includes three main jets (you need just one) 115, 120, and 125 and one low jet #20.  Stock jet is 110.  Reasons to re-jet:
1). you added less restrictive exhaust — you need to run richer – get a larger jet size
2). you added less restrictive air filter — you need to run richer – get a larger jet size
3). high altititude (at high altititudes, bike will run richer)– you need to run leaner – get a smaller jet size
4). spark plug color — this is complicated, but if your plugs are black, you might need to run leaner – get a smaller jet size.
If you have questions on jets or carburetors, go to the Virago Tech website – they really know this stuff.

· Carburetor – polishing the Virago 250 carburetor  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-lj  (near top of post)

· Carburetor joint, plastic is cracked – do  I need to replace ? – Maybe not.  Check it while spraying something on it while the engine is running.  If the engine speed changes, carb joint needs to be replaced.  On my 2002 Virago 250, the carb joint is cracked, but it does not need to be replaced.

· Carrying space – Virago 250 with Rifle Sport fairing – create low cost 2,200 cubic inch space by moving headlight forward and speedo back behind the bars.  Doing this mod adds no weight to the bike.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (middle of post – item #10)

· CB-160 compared to Virago 250 – I compare the bike I drove when I was 16 to the bike I drive now.  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-2y

· Center stand – adding a center stand to a Virago 250 (sidestands cause a lot more trouble than centerstands.)   http://wp.me/P1LWaM-gz

· Center stand – where can I buy one ? – Very hard to find.  Rarely on ebay. SWM makes one for Dragstar 250, but not Virago 250.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-gz

· Chain – what size? –  A virago 250 with stock sprockets (16 front/45 rear) takes  114 links of #520 chain

Motorcycle chain -how to count links

Motorcycle chain – how to count links

· Chain , adjust tension – Chain slack should be between 1.2 inches and 1.6 inches (30 to 40mm).  Check with driver sitting on seat, bike not on stand.

· Chain – Virago 250 – I had bad luck with regular chain, so I bought my first O-Ring chain.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (bottom of post – item #21)

· Crash bars https://www.t-rex-racing.com/1988-2021-Yamaha-Vstar-Virago-250-Engine-Guards-p/n220eg.htm

• Electrical connectors – Virago 250 –   http://wp.me/P1LWaM-1  (middle of post)

· Exhaust mod for Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-2T

· Exhaust mod for Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-1P

· Exhaust Mods – looking for ideas? – 14 Virago 250’s with various exhaust mods  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-bR

· Exhaust Mods – looking for ideas? – 15 pictures of Virago 250’s with various exhaust mods   http://wp.me/P1LWaM-bh

· Exhaust torque (10mm nuts) – Virago 250 about  7 foot pounds

· Fairing / Windshield – Rifle Sport fairing on Virago 250  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (middle of post – item #10)

· Fast bike – Virago 250 – how do I get it ?  This is what worked for me:  1)  Check tires often (it can make a huge difference in performance)  2) Pilot screw adjustment 3/4 to one turn out,  3) removing parts for weight reduction (40 lbs so far),  4) lost 10 lbs myself,  5) O-ring chain, 6) iridium plugs, and  7) new, larger air filter.

The factory recommended tire pressure for Virago 250 is:

25 PSI Front / 29 PSI Rear – for up to 90 KG (198 lbs) load.

29 PSI Front / 32 PSI Rear – for over 90 KG (198 lbs) load.

· Footpeg relocation – front footpegs moved back.  http://wp.me/s1LWaM-1  (top of post)

· Fork Brace, measurements to use to find a universal fork brace – Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-6l  (middle of post)

· Fork Oil, changing – Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-6l  (top of post -items 1 and 2)

· Front Fender, removing – Virago 250 – bad idea to remove – it functions as a light duty fork brace  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-6l  (middle of post – item #6)

· Front Forks, adding 1.625 inch spacer – Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-6l  (item 3)

· Front Forks, springs have two stages – first 1.3 inches is softer – Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-6l  (bottom of post)

· Front Forks, torque values – Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-6l  (item #8)

· Front sprocket, exposed – mod for Virago 250 – The “partially expose front sprocket by removing lower part of front sprocket cover mod”  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-mX  (bottom of post)

· Fuel Line and Vacuum Line routing – Yamaha Virago 250 (please do not laugh – I drew it myself)  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-lj  (middle of post)

· Fuel Pump – covering Virago 250 fuel pump with a 4.5 to 6 inch chrome air cleaner cover is an easy way make a big change in the looks.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (bottom of post – item #16)

· Fuel Pump – covering Virago 250 fuel pump with a chrome air cleaner cover is an easy way make yours look different from the rest.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-h3  (middle of post)

· Fuel Pump, disconnecting – Virago 250 – going by my experience it is not a good idea – slower starting, my engine shut down at 70 mph on Interstate 95, but it re-started immediately.  Other owners have had no issues, so it might work fine for you.   http://wp.me/P1LWaM-lj  (middle of post)

· Gas tank – the advantages of mounting it higher – Virago 250  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-lj  (middle of post)

· Gas tank specifications and information – Virago 250.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-lj  (middle of post)

· Gas mileage – Virago 250 – I get 82 mpg in the Spring/Fall and 92 mpg in the Summer.  The highest I ever got was 104 mpg, but the bike was more aerodynamic then.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-lj  (middle of post)

· Head Covers, chrome – If you have removed yours, and are not putting them back on, they look great as fuel pump covers, and you can put them on both sides of the bike.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-h3  (middle of post)

· Head Covers, chrome – removing chrome head covers on Virago 250  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (top of post, item #5)

· Head Covers, chrome – removing chrome head covers on Virago 250 – it looks better than I expected  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-h3  (middle of post)

· Headlight modulators and how to make a cheap simulation  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (top of post – item #2)

· Ignition switch relocation – relocating the Virago 250 ignition switch.  If you move it to   below the gas tank,  you need to  make a 14 inch extension for the wiring.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp

· Integrated taillight – for Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-18  (top of post)

· Iridium spark plugs – the iridium is a coating and can be damaged – do not gap, clean, or even remove (unless replacing)  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-5X

· LED turn signals – mounted on Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-1l

· LED turn signals for Virago 250 – I looked at every LED turn signal on ebay – and these are the six that I liked.  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-1s

· Lighting mods to increase your safety  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (top of post – items #2 and #3)

· Lithium battery – changes needed for Virago 250 to run a 4 amp hour battery (stock battery is 10 amp hours)  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (top of post – item #4)

· Mirrors for Virago 250 – My favorite is the old Yamaha mirrors.  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-22  (bottom of post)

· Oil for Virago 250 – The mix that I use comes from a long time Yamaha mechanic.  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-22  (middle of post)

· Oil for Virago 250 – Recommended by Yamaha:

Type SE/SF

above 40°F or 5°C :  20W40

below 60°F or 15°C :  10W30

· Oil sightglass hard to read, solution for – Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-6M

· Pilot screw adjustment – Virago 250 – start with 3/4 turn out, if it stumbles and pops on decel, then try 1 turn out  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (middle of post – item #12)

· Platinum spark plugs – the platinum is a coating and can be damaged – do not gap, clean, or even remove (unless replacing)  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-5X

· Polishing the engine side covers – Virago 250.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-mX

· Polishing the Virago 250  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-mX

· Polishing the Virago 250  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (items 6 and 6.5)

· Polishing the Virago 250 – the top five items that make the biggest difference  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-h3  (bottom of post)

· Rear fender mounting, two large allen bolts, affects handling, torque value is 43 ft lbs (60 Nm) – Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-6l  (item #7)

· Rear tires for Virago 250 – list of all the sizes that will fit (some require modifications to fit) – list of actual weights of five 130/90-15 tires  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-R

· Rear tires for Virago 250 (weights) – list of actual weights of five 130/90-15 tires  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-R

· Reserve – How far can I go? – Virago 250 – about  64 miles at 82 mpg  or 71 miles at 92 mpg – but get gas before that, unless you like pushing the bike.  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-lj  (middle of post)

· Safety – the Top Five Tips     http://wp.me/p1LWaM-i5  (bottom of post)

· Seat – under-seat pan  – making plastic cover for wiring under Virago 250 seat  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (middle of post – item #11, also two pictures)

· Signal Dynamics LED brake/running light – added to Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-22

· Spark plugs, iridium and platinum – the iridium or platinum is a coating and can be damaged – do not gap, clean, or even remove (unless replacing)  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-5X

· Speedometer – is it accurate ? (Virago 250)  Mine has the stock size front tire and is typical (indicated x 93.21 %) – indicated 70 mph is actually 65 mph, 60 is 56, and 55 is 51.  Owners who have switched to a larger front tire say it makes the speedometer pretty close to accurate.

93.210% stock Virago 250

GPS _ indicated

46.6 _ 50 mph

51.3 _ 55 mph

55.9 _ 60 mph

60.6 _ 65 mph

65.2 _ 70 mph

· Speedometer bulb – Yamahas use at least two speedometer light bulbs  … Smaller bulb (for Virago 250) is 74 (equivalents 03 and 118) LED equivalents: T5/ 37 /73/ 74 / 79 / 85 ….   … available on eBay, Autozone, and Superbrightleds.com …..  Speedometer bulb, LED -https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/subminiature-bulbs/74-led-bulb-3-smd-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/228/

· Speedometer bulb –  Used on other Yamahas – not Virago 250 – Larger bulb (for 650 Classic) 194 1.7W T10 base (10 millimeter base)]

· Sprocket change for Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-13

· Storage bag – Eclipse 1500 cubic inch carry bag is lightweight and is good choice for Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-1l

· Supertrapp muffler – Added a 12 inch baffle plus changed Supertrapp muffler from side-firing to rear-firing to reduce sound heard by rider.  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-2T

· Supertrapp muffler – For Virago 250, how many discs?  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-35

· Supertrapp muffler – Supertrapp muffler attached to the front section of the stock Virago 250 exhaust  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-2T

· Swing arm pivot bolt, affects handling, torque value is 33 ft lbs (46 Nm) – Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-6l  (item #8)

· Tires for Virago 250 – list of all the sizes that will fit (some require modifications to fit) – list of actual weights of five 130/90-15 tires  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-R

· Tire Pressure for Virago 250 – the factory recommended  tire pressure is:

Up to 90 KG (198 lbs) load :

25 PSI Front / 29 PSI Rear with 130 rear tire

(approx 25F/ 26R with 140 rear tire)

Over 90 KG (198 lbs) load :

29 PSI Front / 32 PSI Rear with 130 rear tire

(approx 29F/ 29R with 140 rear tire)

· Top Speed – Virago 250 – Official top speed is always on level ground with no effect of wind.  Official top speed of the Virago 250 is 85 mph.  Going downhill with a tailwind people have gotten very close to 100 mph, but that is not “top speed”.  My own bike has 17/39 sprockets and would do 98 mph downhill (8,400 rpm) with a tailwind.  Trivia/physics – compared to a lighter rider on the same bike, a heavier rider would have a lower top speed going uphill,  the same top speed on the level (but would take longer to reach it), and a higher top speed going downhill.

· Torque settings, partial list- Virago 250  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-6l  (item #8)

Torque Settings for Virago 250 (front forks):

… cap bolts on top of fork 17 ft lb (23 Nm) … 10mm crown nuts at top of fork 22 ft lb (30 Nm)

… 10mm front fender bolts 14 ft lb (20 Nm) … pinch bolts 14 ft lb (20 Nm)

… front axle 42 ft lb (58 Nm)

Torque Settings for Virago 250 (rear):

… swing arm pivot 33 ft lbs (46 Nm) … 10mm rear shock nuts 17 ft lbs (23 Nm)

… allen rear fender to frame bolts 43 ft lbs (60 Nm)

Virago 250 exhaust torque (10mm nuts) – about 7 foot pounds
(I have never found the Virago 250 spec, so I use the spec from the Honda CM400 – header pipe torque – 7 foot pounds (range is 6 to 9 ft/lbs). The CM400 exhaust studs are 6mm (nut is 10mm).)

· Turn signal indicator – 12 volt LED  turn signal indicator light with buzzer  – or motorcycles (near bottom of post)  http://wp.me/p1LWaM-g2

· Turn signals – arrow turn signals – Virago 250  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (top of post – item #2)

· Valve Adjustment – How to Adjust Valves on Virago 250   http://wp.me/P1LWaM-Cd

Adjust Virago valves every 3,000 miles – do when cold
intake .10mm (range .08mm to .12mm)
exhaust .12mm (range .10mm to .14mm)

– intake .004 inches (range .003 to .005 inches)
– exhaust .005 inches (range .004 to .006 inches)

· Vests, reflective – motorcycle safety – it is amazing – just spend $6.39 and get more respect from other drivers.  It even helps if you are an agressive driver.   http://wp.me/P1LWaM-lj  (near bottom of post)

· Vests, reflective – motorcycle safety – my first report on wearing a vest and the dramatic difference it makes   http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (top of post – item #3)

· Voltage readings – what should they be for a Virago 250 ?   Examples:

12.5 volts – Headlight and 55w x 2 spots “ON” (at 60 mph)

13.4 volts – Headlight off, spots “ON”.

10.8 volts – At a fast idle (headlights and spots on), mine starts at 11.3 volts and then settles down to about 10.8 volts.

12.9 volts – Headlight + carb heaters (50w) “ON”

12.3 volts – Headlight + carb heaters (50w) + driving lights (110w) “ON”

13.2 volts – Headlight  “ON”

(My readings are low, because I wired my gauge to some small wires near the headlight. I would get higher voltage readings if I ran a larger wire directly to the battery.)

· Voltage Regulator, exposed – mod for Virago 250 – The “delete left side plastic cover and expose voltage regulator mod.”  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-mX  (bottom of post)

· Voltage Regulator, does mine run too hot? (Virago 250) – If it is hot enough to burn you (over 120° F), it is probably running too hot.  I think mine is “normal” – my Virago 250 voltage regulator runs hot but will not burn you after a 30 minute ride, so it is maybe 118° F( 47.8° C).  (My 1981 Honda CM400C runs a little cooler – it is maybe 115° F (46.1° C).)

After a 90 minute commute in hot weather, my Virago 250 voltage regulator will burn you, so it must be over 120° F (46.9° C).

If your Virago 250 voltage regulator is running too hot, a temporary way to help until you can get it checked-out is to run more lighting (such as incandescent spot lights – not LED) so the regulator will not need to absorb quite as much current.  Drilling holes in the front edge of the side cover or just leaving the side cover off might help, also.

· Weight reduction … is important for small bikes like the Virago 250.  http://wp.me/s1LWaM-test

· Whitewalls, white – You can get whitewall inserts for $30 per pair at Mooneyes.com. The width available for 15″ and 18″ is 7/8 inch or 22 mm (so they are not as wide as “gangster” whitewalls). The picture has a mock-up of these so you can see the width (they look wider up close).

· Windshield / Fairing – Rifle Sport fairing on Virago 250  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (middle of post – item #10)

· Wiring under seat – making plastic cover for wiring under Virago 250 seat  http://wp.me/P1LWaM-jp  (middle of post – item #11, also two pictures)

——————-

Bar weights – Bar weights can make a big improvment in vibration through the bars.  If you have a vertical twin, and the handlebar vibration bothers you, you might want to try bar weights, preferably over 5.0 ounces or 142 grams each.

53.9 grams each – Chrome bar weights – ebay $6.99 pair shipped
70.9 grams each – “Slugger” bar weights – ebay $10.00 pair shipped
158.8 grams each – Yamaha Virago 250 bar weights
225 grams each  – Royal Enfield – from India – ebay $21.48 pair shipped

1.9 ounces each – Chrome bar weights – ebay $6.99 pair shipped
2.5 ounces each – “Slugger” bar weights – ebay $10.00 pair shipped
5.6 ounces each – Yamaha Virago 250 bar weights
7.9 ounces each – Royal Enfield – from India – ebay $21.48 pair shipped

22 Responses to FAQ

  1. Chris says:

    Hi, have you ever come across these virago’s getting oil in the frames?
    Chris

    • lstrick115 says:

      Hi Chris,
      Yes – oil in the Virago 250 frame almost always comes from the air cleaner. The stock air filter is foam, so it needs to be oiled. It you use too much oil or the wrong kind, it can go into the frame. If your air filter is in good shape, you can just clean it and re-oil it (use oil made for foam air filters). If the foam has gone bad (this is common) find the paper air filter mod on the Virago Tech.com website (post is “Air Cleaner Stuff” – http://viragotechforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=30147). This is a great mod, it is easy to do, and the element is easy to find.
      If you do keep your foam filter, make sure to use the oil made for foam air filters (not the oil for paper K&N filters – it is different). It is real sticky and stays on the foam instead of flying off like regular motor oil. I used motor oil for mine (I’m cheap) and it got on my engine and my clothes.
      Thanks for the question,
      Les S.

  2. ricardo says:

    can you show a correct diagram with all the hoses and pums correctly carburetor, vacum and hoses from gas tank please urgent from portugal xv 250 bobber

  3. rodrigo says:

    can anyone please tell me how to fix the speedo. it is often inaccurate, the pointer oscillates a lot, apart from getting stuck at 40 km/h and wont go down to zero.

    • lstrick115 says:

      Hi rodrigo,
      A speedo is hard to fix, but maybe your problem is the cable.
      Make sure the cable is straight and not kinked.
      Remove the inside part of the cable and grease it except for the top 75 mm or so.
      In other words, don’t get any grease on the last approx 75 mm before it attaches to the speedometer.
      -Les S.

  4. Graham Clarke says:

    Whoever started this website/blog, THANK YOU.
    i have a 250 Virago and could not get a manual with technical details. It is all here. Wonderful.

  5. Røjgaard Carsten says:

    hi Les you’ve been kind enought to help me before and now my otherwise very reliable Virago is cause trouble again. Yesterday it would not tuen off the engine – neither with the ignition key nor with the kill switch. Overnight I suspect it has drained the battery as it is now completely dead – no lights anywhere when turning on ignition. I’m not very knowledgable on the electrics, but FYI I changed the starter relay and right hand handle switch assy last year as well as cleaned the ignition. The battery is one year old too. So, without knowing anything about it I suspect ground cable or ignition, but what do you think could be the problem?

    wkr
    Carsten

    • lstrick115 says:

      Hi Carsten,
      First disconnect the negative battery cable and start charging the battery.
      Once the battery is charged up, you can re-connect it and start checking things.
      My first guess is the AC magneto, so remove the left plastic cover and unplug the rectifier/regulator (I believe that disconnects the AC magneto). If the lights work again, then that is probably it. Let me know and I will try to figure out the next step. When done, make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal so the battery will not get run down. (My second guess is a bad key-switch.) -Les S.

      • Carsten says:

        Ventures a bit further and disconnected what I believe is the rectifier (metal thing with cooling finns placed “upside down” below the battery compartment?). Still sparks when negative pole is touching battery and rectifier disconnected….

      • lstrick115 says:

        Hi Carsten,
        Remove the seat.
        Remove the rear bolt for the gas tank
        With the battery charged up, re-connect the negative battery terminal – do the lights come on?
        (At this point, you are looking for wiring with worn insulation that is shorting out)
        a) If the lights come on, then lightly move the wiring beneath the seat and see if they go off.
        b) Lift the rear of the gas tank 3 or 4 inches (100mm) and lightly move the wiring beneath the tank and see if they go off.
        c) Do the same thing for the wiring around the headlight.
        d) Then remove the chrome bezel of the headlight (two Phillips screws) then gently pull out the headlight assembly and move the wiring and see if the lights go off.
        e) Steer the bars hard left and right to check the wiring inside the bars.
        f) With the seat off, check the wiring for the taillight.
        g) With the L and R plastic side covers off, check the wiring behind the side covers.
        Before leaving the bike always check the negative cable for spark and then leave disconnected it if DOES spark – that means something is still drawing current.
        Let me know what happens!
        Good luck, Les S

      • Carsten says:

        Hi Les – it started raining and since I prefer to repair in the open, I’ve put it on hold until Tuesday this week. Financially a relief to know we’re looking for crossed wires – both rectifier and magneto are expensive here – 600 and 300 USD respectively (first attempt). Will keep you posted on my progress. Thank you again for your help – let me know if there is anyting I can do to support your site og somehow return the favour you are doing me. wkr Carsten

      • Carsten says:

        Hi Les – when connecting the terminals, the engine crancks, but no lights anywhere. So, if I understand your instruktion correctly, all the checks you mention are ti take place under the condition that the lights are ON. So since they are not on, I am at the end of tour check list, right? Wkr Carsten

    • lstrick115 says:

      Hi Carsten,
      To test the ignition switch, you need to unplug it (the plug should be behind the left or right plastic cover). With the ignition switch disconnected, when you connect the negative battery terminal, it will NOT spark. If it DOES spark with the ignition switch plugged in again, that might mean the ignition switch is bad.
      [From the ignition switch, the red wire leads to the nearby rectifier/regulator. IF the AC magneto is bad, you could disconnect only the red wire and then leave the ignition switch still connected.]
      Before leaving the bike always check the negative cable for spark and then leave disconnected it if DOES spark – that means something is still drawing current.

      • Carsten says:

        Hi Les – so, disconnected the Negative pole, charged the battery, disconnected the ignition switch plug and tried to connect the Negative pole again. And it sparks regardless whether the ignition plug is connected or not 😳. Where do I go from here? I can’t see that the ignition is connected to the rektificer by red cable – seems that all cables from the ignition are connected to the bike via the plug….

      • Carsten Røjgaard says:

        Hi again – came to think about it – maybe you wanted me to check ig the plugs have spark, and they do. So would next step be to check all wires for cross-connections / melted insulation? Wkr Carsten

      • lstrick115 says:

        Hi Carsten, Connect a 12 volt light to the coil, so if you find the shorted wire and repair it, the 12v light will go off. With the 12v light “on” move the wires under the tank, under the seat, in the headlight bucket until the light goes off. This will help you find the bad wiring.

      • Carsten says:

        Hi Les – today I found the problem! The problem was the starter relay, despite being only 7 months old, it was gone. After-market crab, but considerably cheaper than original spareparts. Paid 45 USD for it, originals are close to 200 over here, but apparently worth it, compared to the alternative. Thanks a lot for your support on this! And have a nice weekend.
        wkr Carsten

      • lstrick115 says:

        Hi Carsten,
        That’s great! I’m glad you found the problem.
        -Les S.

  6. margrave13 says:

    Hello I have been fixing up my 05 virago xv250 i got for 600 i was lucky it was one with the extra 2 or 3 hp, and after changing sprokets, getting new exhaust and then ill rejet and change plugs my end goal is this to be able to use the 2 max torque ranges of 6k anmd 8k and after the sprokets that should be more like 5 and 7k rpm’s and not only will i be using a regular lower rpm and make klife easier on my bike I also am hoping to be able to use my max torque while in my 65-75 range .
    I have already taken off several things and my bike currently having new Tarazan forward controls added if they can and then im adding a tach to help me maintain my best rpm range, I hope it works but ill be posting pics and stats soon.
    thanks everyone.

  7. Carsten says:

    Hi Les

    I am afraid my starter motor is not working 100%. Occationally, the bike won’t start using the electric starter, just a click, and nothing happens. Push-starting it, however, is no problem at all. So I suspect I need to change it, but have a question. My bike in winter storage and I don’t know where the starter motor is located, but assuming that it sits in the same position as on the 535 my question is whether I have to do anything else than drain the oil to replace the starter motor? E.g removing the stator cover to get to the inside where the starter connects to the rest of the engine? Hoping that oil drainage will suffice ;-). wkr Carsten

    • lstrick115 says:

      Hi Carsten, I never had the left cover off, but most bikes are dry on that side. I would put a drain pan under it, lean the bike a little to the right, and loosen the cover just enough to see if it is filled with oil. First, test the starter direct, bypassing the starter switch to see if it is the switch or something else.

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